Levi’s Just Brought Back Some of Its Most Significant Blue Jeans from the Last 100 Years

Levi’s 501 jean was so popular in the 1890s that the denim magnate created a “bargain” version to make the workwear pants accessible to a larger demographic.

Dubbed the 201, or “No. 2,” Levi’s second general production jean matched the fit and many of the features from the 501 but used cost-saving measures like a cloth “Two Horse” patch instead of leather.

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All the important details from the 501 were passed on to the 201. Exposed copper rivets reinforced all weak points, even the waist cinch and base of the fly. Metal donut rivet buttons were on the waist for suspenders.

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Over a century later, Levi’s is reviving the 201 based on a pair from the 1920s that has survived in good shape. The faithful recreation has a wide-leg fit, which was in fashion a century ago, just as it is today.

A roaring fit

The 201 is just as on-trend today as it was a century ago. Thanks to fashion’s cyclical nature, certain menswear trends from the Roaring Twenties are back in vogue in the as-yet-unnamed 2020s, which includes wide-fit pants with a high waist.

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The exceptionally high rise of the 201 hits above the hip bones on most men and provides ample room in the hip. In the late 1800s and early 1900s, most men wore suspenders, and pants were designed accordingly with with a high waist and roomy hips.

Branded donut rivet buttons, which match those found on the fly, are arranged on the waist to hold suspenders for anyone who wants to get the era-authentic feel. Belt loops are also present for everyone else.

Another faithful element is the Japanese shrink-to-fit denim cut in a universal length. Jeans weren’t designed to fit off the rack until the late 1900s. Denim was designed to start out loose and tighten up as the owner wears it, giving it a customized feel.

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Until as recently as the 1960s, jeans came in a universal length and men cuffed up the ends to a desired length. The new 201 only has one inseam available to match this practice.

1920s Bargain Is 2020s Premium

To stay as authentic as possible to the original 201, Levi’s had to price the jeans at $495. It is a perfect demonstration of how far the quality of “bargain” jeans has fallen in the past century.

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Japanese selvedge shrink-to-fit denim was chosen because most Japanese denim manufacturers use old American knitting machines from the early twentieth century. It is the best way to get as close as possible to the fabric Levi’s used in the 1920s.

The finishing details on the original 201, like the copper rivets and rivet buttons, were stripped down from those used on the 501 during the 1890s to make the jeans more affordable. But replicating those same details today is expensive.

Even Levi’s has cut down on the number of rivets used on its jeans, replacing some with bar-tack stitches. Aside from the 501, most Levi’s jeans don’t even use button flys because they cost more to produce than zippers.

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Ironically, the cloth “Tow Horse” patch on the back waistline is flimsier than the leather patches found on most Levi’s today.

The fit may not be for everyone, but the dedication to replicating the details of the 201 is admirable. The Levi’s Vintage Clothing line is like a denim time machine, and this is now the second farthest back in time it has gone.

Availability and pricing

The Levi’s Vintage Clothing 1920s Lot 201 jeans will be available on March 27 from the Levi’s website and select retailers for $495.

It is being launched with a matching Type I jacket, and both are limited to 800 hand-numbered pieces each.

Levi’s

Levis Vintage Clothing 1920s Lot 201 Jean

Based on a pair of vintage jeans from the 1920s, this detail-specific reproduction is made from premium selvedge shrink-to-fit Japanese denim. It features defunct details like a back waist cinch, suspender rivets and a canvas waist tag.

• $495 at Levi's

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